Braies and Chausses: Medieval Underwear

One of the classes I took while we were at the Estrella War was about making braies and chausses. I did not actually sew anything in this class but got lots of documentation and detailed instructions for sewing at home. 

The braies were fairly easy. They went together quickly because I used the sewing machine. Next pair I make will be hand-sewn. The garment is comfortable but not form-flattering. So why do I want a pair of braies? So I have something to tie the chausses to, of course!

The chausses were more complicated because they are meant to be fairly form-fitting. Much of the class time was used for measuring our legs. Stretch fabric was not available in the Middle Ages so chausses were made of linen or wool cut on the bias. This method of cutting is very wasteful of fabric; however, I determined that the pattern could be cut from an old linen dress. Again, I used my sewing machine. I had to re-sew the seams a few times until the fit was reasonably close. Next I added the ties and then came the moment of truth….

This shows the drawstring of the braies and the front attachment of the  chausses

Here you can see the side ties and the way the braies are tucked into the chausses

This shows the back seams of the chausses, and a vast expanse of white linen (as my photographer pointed out, between snorts of laughter)

I had to endure some teasing from family and close friends, comments like "I wonder why they called them smallclothes?" Still, the braies and chausses are surprisingly comfortable, at least for a short while.  More testing is needed, especially at camping events. 

My next pair of chausses will be hand-sewn and will probably be a closer fit. I will look for a finer quality of linen, hoping that it will have a bit more stretch.

Next I tried making a pair of knee-length hose. The shaping of the feet went much better and faster too -- practice helps! The garters were made from leather scraps from an old couch and buckles from an old pair of boots. Only the tip of the garter shows because the top of the hose is folded over. I made a narrow band of embroidery (silk) along the folded hem.  Field-testing will happen at Winter War.

You ask, "Why go to this much trouble to make underclothes which will be covered up with skirts?" Because it gives me a better idea of what it felt like to be a woman in  the fourteen century. And it also makes me appreciate my modern clothing choices!